JENSEN DSP AMP SMART APP on the App Store
iPhone Screenshots
Description
The Jensen DSP Amp app connects to compatible Jensen amplifiers via Bluetooth and controls most primary functions including:
* EQ
* X-OVER
* RGB Light Customization
* Volume
* Gain Control
* Frequency Adjustment
* Remote Bass Control (XDA91RB only)
Customize your sound by adjusting the integrated digital sound processor (DSP) in the amplifiers using the dedicated application on your smartphone.
This app is compatible with the following Jensen models: XDA91RB/XDA92RB/XDA94RB/BOAUNO/JA1B/JA2B/JA4B
The Jensen DSP Amp app connects only to the compatible Jensen amplifiers listed above. Do not download this app if you do not have a listed compatible amp as it will not work with any other amplifier.
Version 3. 2
– improved Bluetooth connection.
Ratings and Reviews
121 Ratings
Jensen 600w amp
So I bought this earlier today and I have fooled with it for a few hours. It seems to be working properly with a 12 inch dual subwoofer and 10 inch dual subwoofer.(both are cheap subs). The app is a little weird and doesn’t wanna work at times (kinda hesitates) but all in all for the price point I can’t complain, it doesn’t cut out and sounds pretty decent🤷🏻♂️.
Great idea
I love the idea of running the amp settings through Bluetooth bc it allows me to change my settings while at the head unit so it’s much more convenient than walking back and forth.
There are a couple of downsides though. First you can’t rename the amp so if you’re running multiple amps it’s easy to get confused on what amp you’re fine tuning and change the wrong one. Second issue is the app is finicky in terms of switching from one amp to the next. The app gets confused and shows you the wrong settings, ex. When switching from the XDA94RB amp that is set to high pass filter and I switch to the XDA91RB amp my settings sometimes still show the previous amp settings. I have to close the app and re enter it on the amp I want, you can’t toggle back and forth inside the app smoothly.
There are a couple of downsides though. First you can’t rename the amp so if you’re running multiple amps it’s easy to get confused on what amp you’re fine tuning and change the wrong one. Second issue is the app is finicky in terms of switching from one amp to the next. The app gets confused and shows you the wrong settings, ex. When switching from the XDA94RB amp that is set to high pass filter and I switch to the XDA91RB amp my settings sometimes still show the previous amp settings. I have to close the app and re enter it on the amp I want, you can’t toggle back and forth inside the app smoothly.
Fusion marine head unit
Polk audio Satellite patio speakers on our boats Sundeck, were underpowered by the head unit amp, I installed the Jensen 92RB. Downloaded the app onto my IPhone 8. Excellent everything works as advertised, tried all functions and everything is great, Speaker’s are now overpowered by the amplifier but the final tune is W O W ! My Wife thought we paid way too much for the speakers, I finally convinced her an amplifier was the only way to support the speakers.
RBT
“Happiness Is”
1987 Viking 45’ MY
We danced for hours, Se was amazed. Thank You Jensen, for the little app Bonus. The developer, Dual Electronics Corp., indicated that the app’s privacy practices may include handling of data as described below. For more information, see the developer’s privacy policy.
Data Not Collected
The developer does not collect any data from this app.
Privacy practices may vary, for example, based on the features you use or your age. Learn More
Information
- Seller
- Dual Electronics Corp.
- Size
- 4.6 MB
- Category
-
Utilities
- Age Rating
- 4+
- Copyright
- © 2020 Namsung American Inc. All rights reserved.
- Price
- Free
All rights reserved.-
App Support
-
Privacy Policy
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Engine noise or something else? Help please…
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LuckyMeee
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·
- Pioneer DEH-S4220BT
- Jensen XDA94RB amp
- Kicker DSC 6. 5 x 2
- Polk DB 10” sub
5 x 2A few months back I installed everything above but ran into a problem with my driver side door, so driver side speaker was still running off of stock wiring from harness.
2 months later I finally got what I needed to fix the driver side door and was able to finally run speaker wires directly to the amp.
First, I disconnected the stock wires and taped off the ends, then I plugged in the new speaker wires and tested the system (without the car running) clearly I’m a rookie at this and I should’ve tested it with the car running. But everything sounded fine so I put everything back together. Went to start my car and bang there was the engine noise or buzz coming from my speakers.
Troubleshooting:
– double checked every wiring including power and ground. Nope.
– 3 different grounding locations under seat. Nope.
– disconnected every wiring to the amp and relocated ground. Nope.
– put new lug ends on.
Nope.
– figure 8 grounded the RCAs at head unit. Nope.
– cut the ground wire from harness and butt connected a new wire from head unit and grounded it on a metal bar down below that seems to have another ground right next to it. I have no idea where that ground goes to lol I’m assuming the cigarette lighter. Nope.
– opened headunit to locate PICO fuse. Nothing…nope.
– for good measure, disconnected everything again and reconnected everything and NOPE.
after a week of troubleshooting, I’m tired, and that’s why I’m here…please help and tell me what I’m doing wrong so we can all laugh at myself.
AMP – under driver seat
POWER – passenger side under door panels out behind passenger seat to the amp
REMOTE – same with power
GROUND – under driver seat
RCAs – 4 channel ran from head unit (with ground loop figure 8) down coming out near gas pedal then along side center console/gear shifter then behind driver seat to amp
PASSENGER – ran straight across to driver side
DRIVER – zip tied with passenger wire and ran under driver door panel and out behind driver seat to amp
SUBWOOFER – wire under rear seats and out to the amp
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You may have a bad ground in the cars electrial system eg from battery to chassis ground or alt to positive ect.
Could be worth checking
Also the voltage the amp sees increases when the engine is running the alternator
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LuckyMeee said:
- Pioneer DEH-S4220BT
- Jensen XDA94RB amp
- Kicker DSC 6.5 x 2
- Polk DB 10” sub
A few months back I installed everything above but ran into a problem with my driver side door, so driver side speaker was still running off of stock wiring from harness.
2 months later I finally got what I needed to fix the driver side door and was able to finally run speaker wires directly to the amp.
First, I disconnected the stock wires and taped off the ends, then I plugged in the new speaker wires and tested the system (without the car running) clearly I’m a rookie at this and I should’ve tested it with the car running. But everything sounded fine so I put everything back together.
Troubleshooting:
– double checked every wiring including power and ground. Nope.
– 3 different grounding locations under seat. Nope.
– disconnected every wiring to the amp and relocated ground. Nope.
– put new lug ends on. Nope.
– figure 8 grounded the RCAs at head unit. Nope.
– cut the ground wire from harness and butt connected a new wire from head unit and grounded it on a metal bar down below that seems to have another ground right next to it. I have no idea where that ground goes to lol I’m assuming the cigarette lighter. Nope.
– opened headunit to locate PICO fuse. Nothing…nope.
– for good measure, disconnected everything again and reconnected everything and NOPE.
after a week of troubleshooting, I’m tired, and that’s why I’m here…please help and tell me what I’m doing wrong so we can all laugh at myself.
AMP – under driver seat
POWER – passenger side under door panels out behind passenger seat to the amp
REMOTE – same with power
GROUND – under driver seat
RCAs – 4 channel ran from head unit (with ground loop figure 8) down coming out near gas pedal then along side center console/gear shifter then behind driver seat to amp
PASSENGER – ran straight across to driver side
DRIVER – zip tied with passenger wire and ran under driver door panel and out behind driver seat to amp
SUBWOOFER – wire under rear seats and out to the ampClick to expand.
Went to start my car and bang there was the engine noise or buzz coming from my speakers.
..The question you need to be asking is what changed.
If I’m following correctly, you had no engine noise until you wired the driver door speaker to the amp.
I would unhook that speaker from the amp and see if the noise is still there. If you still have the noise, start unhooking things one by one until hopefully you find where the noise is coming from.
You can try grounding the metal case of the radio.
Ground the rca jack outer connection to the amp, too.
Unplug the rca cables one by one on the amp and see if the noise goes away. If it doesn’t you have a problem with your amp wiring or the amp itself. plug the rca’s back into the amp. then try unplugging the rca’s from the radio one by one. if the noise goes away when you unplug from the radio, you know the noise is coming from the radio wiring or the radio itself. You could try putting a noise filter on the power wire of the radio. if the sound doesn’t go away, you’re rca’s are picking up the noise probably.
If you just can’t figure it out, you could go with high level input. Run the front and rear speaker outputs directly to the amp’s high level input. If your amp doesn’t have high level inputs, get a 4 channel line output converter or 2 2 channel line output converters. run the speaker outputs all the way to the amp then put the line output converter there. I know its gonna be a pain in the butt to run all those wires, but i can tell you that I had an engine noise i just couldn’t track down and switching to high level inputs did the trick.
Supposedly the sound quality isn’t as good with high level inputs, but I can’t tell the difference. And high level inputs have the benefit of being almost immune to noise.
As a last resort, you can run a long ground off the amp and ground in the same spot as the radio. I’ve never done it, but i hear it works sometimes.
I hope this helps. I’ll try to answer any questions you have. good luck.
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DoubleCrown said:
You may have a bad ground in the cars electrial system eg from battery to chassis ground or alt to positive ect.
Also the voltage the amp sees increases when the engine is running the alternatorClick to expand…
Could be worth checkingYou should look at this thread too.
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LuckyMeee said:
- Pioneer DEH-S4220BT
- Jensen XDA94RB amp
- Kicker DSC 6.5 x 2
- Polk DB 10” sub
A few months back I installed everything above but ran into a problem with my driver side door, so driver side speaker was still running off of stock wiring from harness.
2 months later I finally got what I needed to fix the driver side door and was able to finally run speaker wires directly to the amp.
First, I disconnected the stock wires and taped off the ends, then I plugged in the new speaker wires and tested the system (without the car running) clearly I’m a rookie at this and I should’ve tested it with the car running.
Troubleshooting:
– double checked every wiring including power and ground. Nope.
– 3 different grounding locations under seat. Nope.
– disconnected every wiring to the amp and relocated ground. Nope.
– put new lug ends on. Nope.
– figure 8 grounded the RCAs at head unit. Nope.
– cut the ground wire from harness and butt connected a new wire from head unit and grounded it on a metal bar down below that seems to have another ground right next to it. I have no idea where that ground goes to lol I’m assuming the cigarette lighter. Nope.
– opened headunit to locate PICO fuse. Nothing…nope.
– for good measure, disconnected everything again and reconnected everything and NOPE.
after a week of troubleshooting, I’m tired, and that’s why I’m here…please help and tell me what I’m doing wrong so we can all laugh at myself.
AMP – under driver seat
POWER – passenger side under door panels out behind passenger seat to the amp
REMOTE – same with power
GROUND – under driver seat
RCAs – 4 channel ran from head unit (with ground loop figure 8) down coming out near gas pedal then along side center console/gear shifter then behind driver seat to amp
PASSENGER – ran straight across to driver side
DRIVER – zip tied with passenger wire and ran under driver door panel and out behind driver seat to amp
SUBWOOFER – wire under rear seats and out to the ampClick to expand…
But everything sounded fine so I put everything back together. Went to start my car and bang there was the engine noise or buzz coming from my speakers.
great article with troubleshooting tree
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I truly appreciate everyone’s response and I read thru it all and here’s the outcome…
so I connected a ground from headunit chassis to actual car chassis and that didn’t help.
I disconnected all 4 rca’s and forgot my rear speakers were still connected to stock wiring harness lol but engine noise went away and sound was coming out of there just perfectly fine with no engine noise.
does that mean bad rca? Or am I missing another step?
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LuckyMeee said:
I truly appreciate everyone’s response and I read thru it all and here’s the outcome…
so I connected a ground from headunit chassis to actual car chassis and that didn’t help.
I disconnected all 4 rca’s and forgot my rear speakers were still connected to stock wiring harness lol but engine noise went away and sound was coming out of there just perfectly fine with no engine noise.
does that mean bad rca? Or am I missing another step?
Click to expand…
where did you unplug the rca’s at? I’m having trouble following you. If you could get more detailed.
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kattan_tha_man said:
where did you unplug the rca’s at? I’m having trouble following you. If you could get more detailed.
Click to expand…
My apologies, I disconnected it from the amplifier.
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LuckyMeee said:
My apologies, I disconnected it from the amplifier.
Click to expand…
that means your problem is the rca’s or the head unit.
I think the head unit is more ikely.
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kattan_tha_man said:
that means your problem is the rca’s or the head unit.
I think the head unit is more ikely.
Click to expand…
So I plugged my in rca’s to subwoofer and had no issues, disconnected that, then plugged in rca’s to front speakers and they worked just fine too??? Then I went ahead and plugged in all rca’s and now all of a sudden the engine noise is very minimal?
I’m lost and confused hahaha my gut tells me though that when I turn off my car and start it again the noise will be back lol
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LuckyMeee said:
So I plugged my in rca’s to subwoofer and had no issues, disconnected that, then plugged in rca’s to front speakers and they worked just fine too??? Then I went ahead and plugged in all rca’s and now all of a sudden the engine noise is very minimal?
I’m lost and confused hahaha my gut tells me though that when I turn off my car and start it again the noise will be back lol
Click to expand.
..It may be time to try using high level inputs. That will very likely fix your problem. Preamp signals are very low voltage so noise creeps in easily.
High level inputs switchover to a much stronger signal, so noise is very unlikely. It also gets your preamp outputs out on the picture.
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It doesn’t sound like this is the case (it wouldn’t be engine noise) but if any of the speaker wires were still attached to the head unit and grounded/positive and negative came in contact,…
I know that’s almost certainly not it, I misread a reply when I made this one and I can’t delete it so I’m sticking with this as I have nothing to add, especially as you got the noise to go away by messing with RCAs
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GrM said:
This is probably nothing but it’s something no one has asked about. When you disconnect the stock wires was that from the head unit or are they still connected to it? Because if they’re still connected to the head unit and if, when you tapped them up, a positive and negative speaker wire were touching that’d do what you’re describing.
Click to expand…
I could have misread something but I’m unclear as to how you did all this.that is a possibility. I don’t understand “i’m unclear as to how you did all this.”
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kattan_tha_man said:
that is a possibility. I don’t understand “i’m unclear as to how you did all this.”
Click to expand…
I meant what you did with the speaker wire coming out of the hu, whether or not you were able to unplug it or if you had to cut it, potentially leaving live wires going nowhere. If you’re really scraping the bottom of the barrel this might be worth checking out. But it’s more of a static sound, sounds like a radio channel with really bad reception.
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Subbed for the outcome.
1st swap rcas (don’t need to tuck yet).
Then Swap in an alt head unit.
Also, what year/model car? Sorry if I missed that. Is there a TCM or other control module located in center hump by the current RCAs?
Try to gauge what B+ (12vDC+) wires are in proximity to the RCAs.
I’ve found a cigarette lighter plug introducing RFI before, where my “tech” had zip-tied an RCA to the lighter wires to keep it from flopping around. (Completely against his training, as well.)
I rerouted the RCA and POOF. Silence and happy cstmr.
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LuckyMeee said:
…
First, I disconnected the stock wires and taped off the ends, then I plugged in the new speaker wires and tested the system (without the car running) clearly I’m a rookie at this and I should’ve tested it with the car running. But everything sounded fine so I put everything back together. Went to start my car and bang there was the engine noise or buzz coming from my speakers.
…Click to expand…
Did you try reconnecting the cut wires?
(That may be worthwhile to try.)
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