How To Pick A Good Amp Wiring Kit + 5 Top Picks
Installing a car amplifier is already enough work without having to worry about finding the right wire & parts. What you might not know is that there are some gimmicks being played by some companies and you could end up getting ripped off!
This post is a really helpful buyer’s guide with a list of some very good amp wiring kits with brief reviews.
As an installer, I can tell you that I’ve seen both great and terrible wire in amp wiring kits. To make things easier I’ve put together a list of some of the best wiring kits for your money.
- What makes a good amp wiring kit?
- Avoid getting scammed! A warning about wire quality
- What size amp kit do I need?
- ★ 5 excellent amp wiring kits for the money★
- > Best 4 gauge kits <
- > Best 8 gauge kits <
- > Best 10 gauge kit <
- Final thoughts on amp kits
What makes a good amp wiring kit?
The basics to look for
Generally speaking, a great amp kit is made of a combination of things:
- Includes most or all of the items you need for a great installation
- Quality wire that with a conductor size that meets the advertised claim
- A good fuse holder and power wire connectors that provide good electrical connections
- Sufficient wire length
- Good value and reasonable price
I’ll go into more detail here to help explain what I mean. When talking about things like “amps” (amperes, a measurement of how much electrical current is flowing) it’s important to know the basics.
A good amp kit is made of quality wiring and includes all the basic items you need for most installation – including wiring with enough length. Zip ties help keep the installation neat and hold wiring in place during installation. Crimp terminals help you get a solid and reliable connection that can handle high power demands.
I generally recommend a kit with the following items:
- RCA cables of good quality; ideally around 16 ft in length or longer
- A good remote wire
- Positive wire: good stranded conductors with about 18 fit length
- Ground wire
- Speaker wire (optional – you can buy separately also)
- Crimp ring terminals for the positive & negative power wires
- Good quality fuse holder + fuse
- Zip ties (not a necessity but highly recommended)
You need to try to anticipate having long enough wiring for your vehicle plus a small amount of extra length if possible. That means a long enough power cable to reach from the battery positive terminal and fuse holder to the amplifier along with the additional length that comes from bends and curves. Typically 18′ (18 feet) in length is enough.
Similarly, the remote wire and RCA cables should be long enough too. 15 or 16 ft in length is often good. Longer wiring is fine and is a little bit of a bonus as it means you can move the amplifier to different mounting locations if necessary.
Wiring that is very short like 12′ is likely to be insufficient (except for amps mounted under a seat) or may barely reach the rear of the vehicle.
I don’t recommend this as a short power wire or RCA cables must be stretched and may be placed under tension in some cases. In that situation, problems will come up with the wiring or amp if it’s continually being pulled on from wiring that’s not long enough.
The best affordable fuse holders
A good quality fuse holder is essentially all you really need. However, there are a few differences that may fit your installation better than others.
Don’t just buy any type without knowing what you’re in for – it can actually make a big difference in how long it takes to install your amp and how difficult it is. It can also make a big difference as to how well it holds up over time due to vibration, heat, and moisture.
For example, lower-cost fuse holders like those in the picture above are found in many budget amp kits. However, they don’t offer the heat resistance, moisture resistance, and great looks of others I’ll mention below.
If you’re tight on money, however, they’re ok as they get the job done and most have good electrical contact. Be aware though that molded fuse holders are normally only rated for smaller amps and use 10 gauge wiring.
They’re not suitable for larger power demands.ANL (rectangular, left) and AGU (rounded, right) fuse holders are great and allow you to easily see the fuse element in case it blows. However, I recommend the AGU holder style more as they’re easier to install and typically are moisture and dirt resistant. Also, they look great!
Rectangular fuse holders and round glass-type fuse holders are nice and have a larger conductive area for current to pass through.
Both are great, but the cylindrical type (AGU) holders are a bit easier to use and install as they’re more compact. Additionally, they tend to be more resistant to moisture and dirt entering them.
Avoid getting scammed! A warning about wire quality
Unfortunately, you can’t trust advertising. There are several gimmicks being used today by wiring kit companies that mislead buyers and will cause you to think you’re getting a great deal when you’re not.
These days some companies are using false advertising and oversized power wire insulation to trick you into believing you’re a larger wire and better deal than you really are.
For example, some amp kits sold as 8 gauge are in fact actually closer to 10 gauge or smaller wire. From the outside, it appears fine and legitimate.
However, after stripping the insulation off you can see that the wire itself is smaller than expected (if you know what to look for) and the insulation is much larger than necessary.
It’s a gimmick used to fool the eyes as the wiring appears bigger than it actually is when viewed through the insulation.
Wiring sizes are standardized according to the American Wire Gauge (AWG) chart. This means that wire manufactured and sold should be labeled according to this chart. If it isn’t you’re at the mercy of anyone who wants to make money off of you and trick you into buying less for your hard-earned dollar.
The same applies to speaker wire as well.
A comparison of true 4 AWG wire (center) versus 2 fakes. Notice the size of the wire conductors vs. the insulation. It’s a gimmick used by many lesser brand amp wire kits and you’ve got to be careful when buying. You’ll get scammed and you’re not getting what you paid for!
Pure copper vs.
copper-coated aluminum wire
Maybe you’ve head about the rising price of copper in the news over the last few years. You might not be aware but many products with braided wire like amp and speaker wire are no longer produced with pure copper.
A lower-cost version is being sold often without the public being aware.
Copper-coated aluminum (CCA) wiring is produced by using a combination of copper over aluminum wire in order to reduce cost. The problem is that aluminum isn’t is good of a conductor for electrical current as copper is and it’s not always a good choice for high-current wiring.
Generally speaking, for the average installation it’s ok, but the main issue I have is that people aren’t always aware because sometimes it is hidden in small print or not disclosed at all!
So, unless you have specific reasons for buying it or just truly want pure copper wire, I wouldn’t worry too much about this issue. Do be aware that aluminum wire can less flexible to a degree than pure copper wire but it also depends greatly on the brand quality.
If you prefer to buy pure copper wire be sure to look closely to avoid being misled by the labeling and advertisements used.
I prefer pure copper wire personally and recommend it for installations which will deliver very large amounts of power and the current drawn will be very high. Again, for the average, moderate-volume system it’s not as necessary.
Ring terminals are included in some amplifier kits and are fantastic for making a solid and reliable power connection for both the positive and negative wiring cables.
In the photos above, the gold-plated crimp ring terminals are the most common and, while they’re not expensive, they’re very good in my experience.
You can use a decent crimp tool, vise grip pliers, or possibly other tools to crimp them securely after stripping about 3/8-1/2″ of insulation off of the wire. You can use them to connect to available bolt studs if available for a great way to connect your amp’s power wiring.
Note that in the pictures above, the terminals on the right are called “crimp lug” terminals, and generally speaking, they should be avoided unless you have the proper tools to use them.
“Lug” crimp connectors are much harder to crimp and require special tools to securely attach to wire, unlike standard ring terminals. Don’t waste your time with them.
What size amp kit do I need?
Remember to always be sure the wire size you’re planning to buy will fit the amp terminals!
If not, you’ll have a difficult time getting the wiring to fasten securely on the amp. There won’t be sufficient room for the wire strands and wire can come free and potentially cause a short circuit.
Quick tip: If you’re unsure of what wire size your amp can hold, and if it doesn’t specify in the specifications, likely it can hold up to 8 gauge wire.
That’s one of the most common sizes for average amplifiers sold today.
When in doubt, remember that many amps use a maximum size of 8 or 4 gauge wire. Using a larger wire than an amp requires is actually a waste of money and it can be harder to deal with.
One exception is moving up from a 10 AWG kit to an 8 AWG kit, as they’re priced similarly these days and unfortunately, many kits sold as “10 gauge” are much smaller wiring as I warned you about earlier.
How to figure out the amp wiring kit gauge you need
To estimate what gauge of amp wire that you need to use these steps:
- Calculate: (Amp power (RMS) / efficiency) / 13.8V = Current draw in Amps
- Select a wire size based on the chart below
What we’re doing is calculating how much current we’re drawing based on the maximum power the amp can use minus losses. All car amps have an efficiency rating which is because some electrical current is wasted and turned into heat.
For class A/B amps, efficiency is around 65%. For class D amps it’s closer to 85%.
We can do a little bit of math to get a rough estimate in order to choose a safe size. Remember to always use the Root Mean Square (RMS) ratings as those are the actual, realistic power ratings that an amp should be able to actually provide to speakers. Exaggerated or misleading specs will cause you to greatly over-estimate the amount of current (Amperes, or “Amps”) an amplifier will draw.
For a class A/B (standard) 4-channel amp rated at 75W per channel we can find:
- Total max. power: 75W x 4 = 300W
- (300W / 0.65) / 13.8V = 33.4 A (accounting for about 65% efficiency)
Therefore we can use an 10 AWG wire kit, or step up to 8 AWG wire if we like.
For a 4-channel class D amp with 75W per channel we can find:
- Total max. power: 75W x 4 = 300W
- (300W / .90) / 13.8V = 24.2A (accounting for about 90% efficiency)
Therefore we would use an 10AWG wire kit (or 8 gauge, if we like).
As you can see, a class D amplifier uses less electrical current and can often use a smaller power wire size (more than 10A in this case!).
★ 5 excellent amp wiring kits for the money★
Our top picks
|★ Our #1 Pick ★KnuKonceptz KCA 4 Gauge||
||Check on Amazon|
|NVX XKIT42 4 Gauge||
||Check on Amazon|
|Pro QualityStinger SK6681 8 Gauge||
||Check on Amazon|
|$25 and under!Belva BAK82 8 Gauge||
||Check on Amazon|
|Stinger SK46101 10 Gauge||
||Check on Amazon|
> Best 4 gauge kits <
1. KNU Conceptz KCA-K4 4 gauge amp wiring kit – Excellence on a budget!
With the KNU Konceptz KCA-K4 amp kit, you get what you need to kick ass musically. Unlike other amp kits, however, it’s not outrageously priced despite the great quality you get.
This is some great wiring in a 4 gauge kit for under $40!
This is a wiring kit with an easy-to-install AGU fuse holder and some seriously good wiring. The positive and negative power wires are made with copper-coated aluminum (CCA) wiring to keep costs down but still remain highly flexible and installer-friendly.
The AGU fuse holder is simple to install as it just requires stripping off a small amount of the positive power cable then inserting it into the fuse holder receptacle before tightening the fastening screw. Both the wire insulation and fuse holder plastic housing look distinctively different and will really set your installation apart.
You’ll also get some great twisted-pair RCA cables with gold-plated contacts and durable insulation. They’re also flexible and work really well for installations.
The speaker wire kicks ass and I wasn’t expecting such a high-quality roll of speaker wire to be included. It feels and works great, and it’s much better than the typical 18 AWG wire most kits would include.
This affordable, quality kit includes:
- 18 Feet 4 Gauge Ultra Flex Blue Power Wire
- 3 Feet 4 Gauge Ultra Flex Black Ground Wire
- One inline fuse holder with 80A AGU Fuse
- One 5 Meter black RCA Cable with Built in Turn On lead
- 20 Feet Clear 14 Gauge CCA Speaker Wire
- 2 Gold Plated 4 Gauge Ring Terminals, 2 Gold Plated 4 Gauge Spade Terminals
- Wire ties
Listen, guys, you’re going to be hard-pressed to get a better kit for the money. Want a great kit but need to keep costs down?
This is a fantastic choice.
Take my advice and head on over to see the current price and wonderful reviews at Amazon now.
2. NVX XKIT42 100% copper 4-gauge install kit – Professional quality wiring you can afford.
The NVX XKIT42 really hits a sweet spot between spending way too much for a pro-level 4 gauge amp wiring kit in your local car stereo shop or retail store and getting a budget-priced kit.
I say that because despite it featuring truly high-end 100% copper stranded wire that’s coated in silver, it still sells for a price that’s far less than the $100 or more I’ve seen on other similar kits.
- 20 ft. (6.1m) Frosted Blue 4 gauge main power wire with seamless crimp ring terminal
- 3 ft. (.91m) Frosted Black 4 gauge main ground wire with seamless crimp ring terminal
- 20 ft. (6.1m) Clear 18 gauge remote lead wire
- 40 ft. (12.2m)) Frosted Black/Blue 16 gauge speaker wire
- One 16 ft. (5m) 2-channel twisted construction RCA Interconnect Cable
- 1 ANL/Mini-ANL fuse holder with 100 amp Mini-ANL fuse
- 1 black rubber firewall grommet
- Two 4 gauge nickel-plated spade terminals
- Four 18 Gauge Spade terminal
- Two 18 Gauge Red butt connectors
- Four 16 gauge quick disconnects
- Five 16 Gauge Nickel Plated spade terminals
- 10 6″ black zip ties
The wire is some of the most flexible wire around and it’s rare to find silver-coated wire anywhere. I was honestly surprised to have run across this kit, as I hadn’t expected to find something so good that’s not overpriced.
If you’re looking for one of the best money can buy (in this case around $60 dollars) that looks fantastic this is the kit you need!
Head over to check it out and find the best price over at Amazon.
> Best 8 gauge kits <
Stinger SK6681 8 AWG complete amplifier wiring kit – 100% oxygen-free copper in a kit that’s hard to top.
A step above the others.
Stinger has always been known for its great installation wire, stereo installation kits, and a variety of aftermarket items that are always some of the best you can buy. The SK6681 is no exception.
What really sets is apart from the others is not only how flexible the wire is (100% oxygen-free copper, with fine conductors for maximum installation ease and power conduction) but how wonderful it looks.
Much like the larger NVX XKIT42 it features stretch wire loom for a clean installation and protection in the engine compartment as well as a compact but high-conducting fuse holder.
All power wiring is “tru-spec” and meets the AWG gauge chart sizing as advertised – no misleading wire sizing here. Conductors on the connectors are tinned for corrosion resistance.
RCA cables are shielded and audiophile-grade and are 17 ft in length to accommodate nearly all installations.
The included fuse holder is water-resistant as well!
The SK6681 comes with:
- 17 ft. of 8 gauge matte blue hyper-twist power wire
- 3 ft. of 8 gauge Matte silver hyper-twist ground wire
- 17 ft. of 18 gauge Blue turn-on wire
- 17 ft. 6000 Series RCA interconnects
- 30 ft. 16 Gauge speaker wire
- Mini-ANL style fuse holder
- 70 amp Mini-ANL fuse
- Pre-terminated ends
- Mesh wire loom
- Stinger metal badge
- Includes installation accessories (wire ties, crimp terminals, etc.)
I wouldn’t pass it up if I were you and I was looking for an 8 AWG wiring kit I could afford without having to settle for a CCA wire type kit. Even better, it sells for around $50 or so!
Your dream system is waiting for you! It only takes a few seconds to find out why it’s one of the best selling amp kits at Amazon today.
Belva BAK8 complete 8 gauge amplifier wiring kit – Great-looking & high-performance with a fantastic budget price!
This kit by Belva is a great cost-cutting way to get good amp performance in your ride. It’s designed for amplified systems up to 500W and comes with premium Powerflex power and ground wire that bends easily for making installation less of a hassle than lesser brands.
You’ll get a great-looking and water-resistant fuse holder as well. Thanks to the design installation is simple and requires no additional crimp contacts. Just take it apart, strip your power wire, and insert it into the contact points. Tighten the screws and you’ve got a great and reliable power source!
This is a CCA wire kit, but unlike others, the Belva CCA wire is made from 30% copper wire while competitors use only 10%! The included RCA cables feature a helical-twisted construction to minimize noise and interference and are a wonderful 17 ft in length!
The power & speaker wiring included feature a very durable – but flexible – jacket, making them a pleasure to install. The fine wiring conductor count also is a step above lesser brands. You’re going to like it a lot!
For around close to only $20 dollars you’ll get:
- 17 ft. (5.2 meters) Red 8 gauge power wire
- 3 ft. (.91 meters) Black 8 gauge ground wire
- 17 ft. (5.2 meters) Gray 18 gauge remote lead wire
- 17 ft. (5.2 meters) Helical Twist 2-channel RCA interconnect cable
- 20 ft. (6.1 meters) Speaker cable
- One In-line Mini-ANL Fuse Holder with a 60 amp Mini-ANL fuse
- One black rubber firewall grommet
- 1 each 8 Gauge Blue & black chrome-plated ring terminals
- Three 18 Gauge Blue Spade terminals
- Two 18 Gauge Black Spade terminals
- One 18 Gauge Red butt connector
- Ten 4″ Black zip ties
This isn’t the “el cheapo” kit like so many amateurs buy – but unlike them, you’re a smart shopper so you’ll be getting a real 8 gauge wire rather than paying the same money for 10 gauge wire!
Ready to get your system going and enjoy the music you love without limitations?
Take the next step and check out the fantastic Belva 8 ga. kit at Amazon today.
> Best 10 gauge kit <
Stinger SK46101 – A no-nonsense 100% copper amp wiring kit that looks great. Excellent RCA cables, too!
For this size of amp wiring, I’m going to recommend just one as there are so many amp kits sold as “10 gauge” that are in fact rip-off in nature. But primarily you can buy an 8 AWG amp wiring kit for nearly the same money as a good 10 AWG kit, so it’s something to consider when shopping.
The SK46101 is a kit I really like. One major reason is that during installations, amp wiring with a pre-installed fuse holder like this one made the installation process that much easier and faster. It uses a standard automotive fuse to protect the positive wire from shorts. Included is everything else you need. This is real 100% oxygen-free copper wiring here, my friend!
Not only that, but quality ring terminals are included for a really tight install and no power-robbing poor connections on the battery and ground wiring.
The wiring features attractive matte insulation but what I really love about it is the RCA cables which feature shielded twisted-pair wiring for reduced noise and excellent sound conductivity. Besides, they just look great!
For close to $35 you’ll get:
- A 17Ft. 4000 Series 2 Channel Audio Interconnect
- 18 Ft. Matte Red Hyper-Twist 8GA Power Wire
- 3 Ft. Matte Black Hyper-Twist 8GA Ground Wire
- 17 Ft. Matte Blue 18GA Remote Turn-On Wire
- SPD5101 AGU Fuse Holder
- 60 Amp AGU Fuse
- 8GA Crimp Ring Terminals Pre-Installed
- 16GA Blue Butt Connector
- 8GA Snap In Protective firewall grommet
- Self Drilling Mounting Screws
- (10) 7” Wire Ties
Not only that, but the power connections are pre-terminated so that’s even less work you have to do!
I totally understand how it feels to be strapped for cash – that’s totally ok!
You don’t have to settle for less. Head over and get one of the best values for your dollar at Amazon right now. You won’t regret it!
Final thoughts on amp kits
Ultimately it’s up to you to decide how much money you’re willing to spend, but I strongly encourage you to be careful and pick up one of the kits I’ve listed above. They’re good, reputable kits and you won’t get scammed with buying something only to get extremely disappointed once you get it home & check it out.
I don’t want that to happen to you.
Remember the following:
- copper-coated aluminum (CCA) wiring is the less-expensive version of today’s amplifier power cables in wiring kits
- Real 100% copper wiring kits cost more and can handle more electrical current, but for typical installations, they’re not totally necessary. (mainly for very-high power systems and for people who demand the best quality)
- Many budget amp wiring kits are NOT true-spec wire: they lie about the wire size and don’t follow the American Wire Gauge (AWG) standards as reputable brands do
When in doubt about a kit’s quality, don’t buy it! You’re very likely to be disappointed and may have to return your kit for a better one.
Spend a few more dollars for a kit you can count on to avoid problems when it comes time to install your system.
Amp Installation Kits
Amp Installation Kits
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Amp Installation Kits
KnuKonceptz amp installation wiring kits fit many budgets and load requirments. KnuKonceptz offers 4 and 8 gauge kits in 2 channel and 4 channel and 0 Gauge in complete and power only installation kits. Need help choosing the right one, see our Amp Kit Buyers Guide
Bassik 0 Gauge Amplifier Installation Wiring Kit
Bassik 4 Gauge Amplifier Installation Wiring Kit
Bassik 8 Gauge Amplifier Installation Wiring Kit
KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit
KCA Complete 8 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit
KCA 0 Gauge Power Amplifier Installation Kit
Kolossus Fleks 0 Gauge Power Amp Kit
Kolossus Fleks 0 Gauge Dual Amp Power Kit
Kolossus Complete 4 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit
Kolossus Complete 4 Gauge 4 Channel Amplifier Installation Kit
Kolossus Complete 8 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit
laying rules and selection of cable section – acoustics “AK” from Ural (Moscow)
Wires for car audio do not need to be replaced or completed only if the radio is replaced. If you need to install an additional power amplifier or an active subwoofer, install additional power wires for car audio. This is necessary, because when increasing power, it is imperative to use a cable with more power than the “native” one. In addition, additional wiring for car audio is laid in other places – for example, in the trunk or under the seat. When installing additional acoustics, you need to calculate the cable for car audio and choose the size of the optimal wire section for midbass, tweeter, midrange or subwoofer.
Car audio wires
The acoustic wire is responsible for transmitting the sound signal from the amplifier to the speaker, and the interconnect wire is responsible for connecting the radio to the amplifier.
What wires are needed for car audio
You need a set of two types of wiring, each of which has its own characteristics and functionality.
Speaker wires . This is a relatively thin wiring, the quality of which depends on the material of manufacture and the strength of the insulation. Acoustic wires for car audio are made from different materials:
Interconnect wires . The connection of the amplifier and the radio is provided by this type of wiring. The interconnect cable is designed to transmit low-level audio signals with minimal loss. The quality indicators of such wires are affected by:
- Sound fidelity.
- EMI Protection – Good shielding required.
- Manufacturer’s reputation – for example, Ural wires are of high quality and have been tested by more than one generation of motorists.
Structurally, the interconnect cable consists of a twisted or coaxial pair, where the signal transmission is two-pin – usually the central core and the screen are involved.
Power cables for car audio
Multi-core cable with dielectric insulation is a power wiring for car audio. Most often, such wiring is made of copper, and its main difference from acoustic wiring is the cross-sectional diameter and the ability to withstand high power. Usually this is a single wire.
The choice of power cable for car audio is made based on the characteristics:
- the power consumed by the equipment;
- required length;
- quality indicators.
Power Wiring Selection
You can choose the right power cable for car audio according to the tables. For a general understanding, you can independently calculate the cross section using the following formula:
- sum up the nominal power of all channels;
- multiply the obtained value by 2 – as a result, the maximum power for amplifiers with 50 percent efficiency will be calculated;
- the final figure must be divided by 13 – the divisor is the average indicator of the on-board network with the car engine turned off and on.
Table: calculation of the power cable for car audio according to the purpose
When wiring for car audio, you must take into account the basic rule – you can test the equipment only with the system turned off and the positive power wire de-energized.
Recommendations for laying a power cable for car audio:
- Wire insulation must not come into contact with the motor.
- Additional protection is desirable at the point where the power wire passes through the bulkhead of the engine compartment.
- Wires that are pulled through the doors, it is desirable to choose frost-resistant. Otherwise, they will harden at sub-zero temperatures.
- Any wires must not be submerged in water. Moreover, from it is necessary to protect as much as possible from moisture ingress, this especially applies to the terminals.
Laying cables for car audio in a car is carried out using the following elements:
- clamp clip connectors.
It is believed that thermosetting cambric better and more securely fastens the places of twisting, unlike adhesive tape.
If you have any questions or want to entrust the connection of our acoustics “AK” to professionals, please contact certified installation studios.
How to choose the power cable to power the amplifier?
- Material Information
On the pages of my site, I have repeatedly mentioned the HUGE importance of wires for connecting an amplifier. In this article, we will consider this issue again and in more detail!
So, you have already saved up some money and bought yourself some kind of sound amplifier for your car, or maybe they just gave it to you, and this happens. And of course, now you have an absolutely normal question about connecting an amplifier and installing it in a car. In order for the sound to please, and not upset, any amplifier must be connected correctly. The choice of the required section and the very quality of the wires are in the very first place in matters of powering amplifiers.
Of course, the choice of wires in our time in stores is great and that a beginner can easily be fooled and put in not what is needed, but the fact that the seller is profitable and often more expensive does not mean better.
The very first thing you need to know and understand is that all wires differ in cross section. In the field of car audio, wires marked “0Ga”, “1Ga”, “2Ga”, “4Ga”, “8Ga” are used – these are one of the most common. There is an interesting feature that the wire with the designation “0Ga” has a much larger cross section than, for example, the same “8Ga”. In general, the abbreviation “Ga” itself comes from AWG – American Wire Gauge – the American standard for measuring the cross section of a wire. The larger the AWG number, the smaller the wire size.
At a more professional/competitive level, powerful welding wires of the KG-50 type are used, and even in several broaches.
Below is the table of cross-sections most widely used in car audio:
In fact, everything is simpler than simple, the thicker the wire, the more current it passes. Accordingly, the larger the wire cross-section, the better the power supply of your amplifier will definitely be, but you should not forget that an overly rigid cable is not so easy to lay in terms of installation in the car itself.
In order to choose the right wire cross-section, you need to clearly know the current consumed by the amplifier, at least roughly, you need to know how much power the amplifier itself is. Actually, these two concepts are closely and inseparably interconnected. But do not forget to take into account such a factor as the length of the cable, and from this, depending on the current consumed on the cable, there will be a certain “voltage drop” in other words, drawdowns are their mother 🙂
To understand what’s what, we carefully study the plate below:
This table is relevant if high quality copper wire is used. Drawdowns on the wire should be no more than 0.5V (theoretically).
Be sure to install a power fuse in the immediate vicinity of the battery at a distance not exceeding 30 cm, this measure will protect the power cable.
For a budget system, a ready-made set of wires will do. But do not forget the proverb “if you want to do something well, do it yourself.” Why is this – you should not save on food, but it’s better to save money and buy a normal cable.
Sometimes I see an amplifier connected to clients via a 2-wire wire no more than 2 x 0.25mm2 well, that’s pi $ dets :)) simple. The LED on the amplifier blinks to the beat of the music. What concept of how “shakes” can we talk about. The most interesting thing is that they blame the amplifier for everything, saying that it is fig, but not their wires, because some electrician said that this is normal.
Yeah, that’s fine :))) the power supply of the amp is 9-10 Volts in fact, and even less in peaks. In short, avoid such electricians all the time (because a normal specialist will never say such a thing, much less do it) if you don’t want to be left without a car in the truest sense of the word. It can burn to hell with you (God forbid, of course) with the wrong approach to connecting the amplifier and electrical equipment in general.
Thank you all for watching! Have a good mood 🙂
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